If the dead could speak, they would tell tales of those who lived in splendor and were buried in grandeur at the Chaukandi graveyard in Memon Goth village, which lies 33 km from the bustling Karachi city centre.
The burial ground is home to over 405 graves with beautifully carved enormous tombstones that are an art in itself. Interestingly, a similar graveyard with equally beautifully carvings of tombstones lies close to the national highway and is quite popular among the local tourists and visitors. But, Chaukandi graveyard at Memon Goth, despite its beauty, is a gem that only a few bother to visit.
Woman’s grave – Jewellery design seen – Photo Credit: Author
Gul Hassan Kalmati, a renowned writer and historian said that such graveyards are called Sindhi Gharyal [stone carving]. “Karachi alone is home to 40 such graveyards,” said Kalmati expressing surprise that this journalist travelled so far from the city to visit the graveyard when similar namesakes were available elsewhere in Karachi.
Officially it is called the Baloch graveyard by the Sindh Cultural Department while locals refer to it as Malik Tota graveyard, after the tribes that live here including, Kalmati and Malik Tota Sardars.
It is more likely a reflection of the Rajasthani culture
Explaining why it is called Chaukandi, Kalmati said that the term refers to a grave that has a canopy over it. “The graves that do not have a canopy cannot be called a Chaukandi,” said Kalmati.
Explaining why it is called Chaukandi, Kalmati said that the term refers to a grave that has a canopy over it. “The graves that do not have a canopy cannot be called a Chaukandi,” said Kalmati.
Historians, however, are yet to agree on what exactly the term Chaukandi means. Some believe the word means four corners. Chow means four and Kandi means corners.
As to the brilliant carvings that that give the tombs an ethereal appearance, Kalmati said they were not representative of just one religion or culture but had several influences. He said some of the craftsmen who lend their skills belonged to what is now Rajasthan in India and it is more likely a reflection of the Rajasthani culture.
Gul Hassan Kalmati – Photo Credit: Author
“You can see Buddha’s symbol of Surajmukhi (sunflower) and there is some Iranian influence too because of the Baloch Kalmati tribe that is believed to have its roots in Iran,” said Kalmati. The Rajasthan influence is also because two of the tribes that lived in and around the area – Burfat and Jokhiya- originally came from the area which is now the Indian state.
He said while such carvings could be found on the graves of tribes such as Burfat, Jokhiya , Malakani (known as Malik in Sindh), Lashari and Jaam, it was the first two along with Kalmatis who had the greatest influence as far as the art of the tombstones is concerned.
He said such graves can also be found in the cities of Thatta, Jamshoro and Kohistan in Sindh.
Photo Credit: Author
“Horses, jewelry, swords were commonly depicted through the carvings. The elaborately decorated tombstones were not the preserve of just men. Even graves of women and children had grand tombstones with carvings, the designs of which are even now used in embroidery by the local womenfolk,” said Kalmati.
Men’s grave can be identified by masculine designs of turban while women’s graves are adorned with designs of Dholki (a palanquin for women) and jewelry.
Kalmati said the tombstones also point to the prosperity of the people who were buried here. “One of the graves cost 5500 in the year in 913AD in Maghopir, Karachi. If they could spend so much on a tombstone, you could imagine the prosperity of the people who lived here during those times,” he said.
But the prosperity that Kalmati talks of is a matter of past for, the grave faces far more severe existential crisis at present, despite the efforts of the Sindh Cultural Department.
A road has been built through the graveyard in violation of the Sindh Cultural Heritage (Preservation) Act, 1994 and trucks frequently pass through these roads.
Locals, who accompanied this journalist, spoke of unbridled encroachment happening on the land. “When I was a kid there used to be more graves now they have been destroyed to encroach on the land,” said the local who refused to elaborate on who the encroachers were following an interruption by another local.
Photo Credit: Author
The
peon of the Cultural Department of Sindh’s office said the graveyard has around
405 graves and elaborated on the efforts being done by the government to
preserve it. He could not however clarify what the state had done to rebuild
the ruined and encroached graves.
Kalmati rued the fact that the site received step brotherly treatment
compared to the one on the highway as the latter got more visitors. “There are
no facilities for visitors nor is it popular among researchers. As per norms,
no new construction can be carried out but you can see new graves being built
and the heavy trucks passing by, affecting the delicate carvings on the tombstones,”
said Kalmati.
The biggest worry that the locals have is that the grave will find its way into the hands of the land mafia.
Despite, Kalmati’s claim that the Chaukandi graveyard’s namesake near the highway gets better treatment, it too faces several threats.
When
this journalist visited the graveyard near the highway, Khuda Ali Shah, an
activist who played a major role in constructing a wall around the graveyard
urged us to visit his father’s grave too.
Though Khuda Ali claimed to work towards protecting the site, he had no qualms
asking a local- G.M Shah to drive me to the graveyard, in violation of rules
This graveyard too had heavy vehicles passing through the congested lanes even as the sign board announcing the name of the graveyard was in dilapidated condition. Interestingly, the boards with names and pictures of politicians were well maintained.
Photo Credit: Author
Although, overall the graveyard was in better condition than the one at Memon Goth.
As we headed back, G.M Shah wondered aloud how much of this city’s heritage lies buried in here and how its citizens continue to remain ignorant about it.
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